[Tfug] Fwd: Re: OT: Latex/rubber solvents

[William McNulty]

No problem. I hope the laquer thinner helps. It really should. With
anything you'll ever have to remove there's always going to be a bit of
hand work but yea i agree a solvent to make it easier is better. I do
understand now what you meant about the paddles. I've had this problem
before. I believe I used the same thing. Normally nowadays if our paddle
gets tons of buildup on it we leave it. Chances are the dried buildup won't
affect future use. But that's just a personal lazyish opinion. It's nice to
have tools clean. But like I said, there will always be a bit of scraping,
so I'm hoping we can narrow that down.

The only thing I can think of is an industrial airplane paint stripper. As
a last resort alternative. It's very good at what it does. Probably *the*
best paint stripper I've ever used. But it is really noxious and very bad
for your skin or anything else it touches. Not the safest this unless
you're experienced. No offense if you are. The laquer thinner should do the
trick though.

Good luck! I'll check back to see the results
On Mar 10, 2014 2:29 PM, "Bexley Hall" <bexley401 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi William,
>
> On 3/8/2014 10:05 AM, William McNulty wrote:
>
>> I would suggest basic laquer thinner from ace hardware. It's not too
>> pricey
>> for a gallon. But i do believe it will work the best.
>>
>
> OK.  I bought a gallon this morning.  I'll try to make some time to
> find a suitable can to place the thing in (it's an odd size and I
> obviously want a can that "fits well" -- to elimate the need for extra
> solvent)
>
>  You will have to do a
>> bit of scraping work on the paddels though.
>>
>
> That's been the problem -- the stirrer is a bunch of conCAVE surfaces.
> So, things like a knife or any other straight-edged device are not
> very effective.  Building on your comment re: "mechanic" in another
> post, imagine trying to clean a distributor cap that had been dunked
> in something rubbery (inside and out).  Some of the surface are
> easy to work on -- others you'd spend hours with a "fine tool" trying
> to scrape them clean.  (e.g., the underside of the *top* of the cap)
>
>  Depending on how thick it is it
>> may take a bit to get it all off. In the future you can make a paddle with
>> a rod out of wood and still use it in a drill. Then you toss it out.
>>
>
> I made the mistake of assuming the thing wouldn't "set" in the time
> it took me to paint the roof (more specifically, the time it took
> to apply the last 5G bucket of paint -- as it was used to stir
> that bucket as well as all the previous).
>
> Next time, I would use the mixer I have for the drywall mud, instead.
> Much simpler surface (not as contorted as this other one).
>
> But, I also want to learn what I can use to remove/dissolve the stuff
> because roof painting doesn't seem to be a "precision operation"...
> the stuff gets on lots of surfaces that you'd rather it *not*.  It
> would be nice to be able to remove it *after* having finished instead
> of having to keep a wet rag handy and tackle each "splatter" as it
> occurs.
>
>  Hope this helps
>>
>
> Thanx!  I'll post back results...
>
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